Monday, April 30, 2012

Oraginis: Del Re Unity

Platter of oraginis on my kitchen counter
 Going on vacation was always a great thing, but I always had feelings of homesickness. I loved travelling because I got to see new and exciting places, but I never could wait to be back in my own bed. Coming home from vacation always went the same way for my family. The day before we would arrive, my parents would call my babysitter and ask her to make oranginis for when we get back. The second we arrive at home my brother and I would leave our luggage in a heap in the living room floor and run into the kitchen, mouths watering at the smell of oranginis. They would be sitting in the warming drawer, just waiting to be gobbled up. My brother and I would grab paper plates and napkins from the pantry while my father got glasses of water for each of us. My mother would remove the platter from the warming drawer and divvy the little balls of orange heaven equally among the four of us. After a long day of travel, nothing tasted better than a hot and steamy orangini. The hot outside shell of bread crumbs traps the heat inside on the rice and meat, and after the first bite steam rises from the center of the ball. It smells so good and just beckons for you to take another bite. Among the four of us, my father, mother, brother and I, a batch of forty oranginis could disappear in the blink of an eye. I have never thought about the significance of oranginis to myself and my family. The recipe includes strong influences from outside Italy and has changed over time as my family dynamic and culture has transformed. In my family, oranginis represent the bringing together of my family and the importance of being home.

Oranginis are easy to make, but they also taste great. An orangini is a deep fried rice ball that can contain pretty much anything. They are usually prepared with meat or cheese, but I have seen oranginis with peas, spinach, or even shrimp. They usually have a core of meat and cheese, a middle of rice, and then an outside of crunchy deep fried bread crumbs. The oranginis I have had in my life lack the core of a particular meat or cheese, but rather have the meat and cheese mixed in with the rice. They are prepared by frying garlic in olive oil until the garlic turns brown. Add tomatoes to the garlic and simmer for about fifteen minutes. While the tomatoes and garlic simmer boil rice until it is done. Once the rice is cooked add cheese to it and let the cheese melt throughout the rice. Cook chopped sirloin in a frying pan until they are cooked to satisfaction, but note that this chopped sirloin can be replaced with any other kind of meat, shrimp, or vegetable. Once everything is finished let it all cool for a few minutes and then mix the meat, rice, and cheese with tomato sauce. Use your hands to form the oranginis into spheres about the size of a small orange. Dip the rice balls into beaten eggs and roll in bread crumbs to sufficiently coat the outer surface. Once they are covered, deep fry them in olive oil till they brown. My experience in this process has only occurred after the rice, cheese, meat, and sauce has been mixed together. My babysitter would give me advice while I would roll the orangini into balls. She told me to make sure they are firm and dense to ensure they do not break apart when dropped into the frying oil.

I was wary when I began to search for this dish on the internet. I have never really heard of it outside of my family and the rice balls I have seen super markets never shared the same name. They would usually be called “rice balls” and almost always taste worse than the oranginis I know and love. I was further discouraged when I searched orangini in the Oxford English Dictionary and received no results. I realized, through my research, that my family uses an incorrect spelling for the name of the dish. Orangini is my family’s anglicized version of the actual name, “arancini”, the Italian word for “little orange” (Zeldes). According to my father the alternate spelling originated because little children are not able to speak well and create their own versions of words (Del Re). The name derives from the Italian word for orange, arancia. Arancini have a golden brown color and are about the size of an orange (Zeldes). Even though the actual name is arancini, I will still refer to them as orangini. The Oxford Companion to Italian Food describes oranginis “as a well-known bar snack, eaten freshly cooked and hot, so that the soft filling contrasts with the crisp outside” (Riley, 23). Many varieties of orangini exist, differing throughout the different regions of Italy.

      courtesy of :
 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54564231
@N04/5257120547/
 


Italy used to be a decentralized nation and thus different regions would each have their own foods and variation on a specific dish. There are only few dishes that can tell as much about the peoples who have contributed to the island of Sicily over the centuries. They are said to have originated in Siciliy in the 10th century when rice and oranges were introduced to Sicily from the Middle East (Zeldes). Sicily maintains a strong presence of influence from the Middle East because of its proximity to Africa. The Moors moved through Africa and moved up through Italy (Chamberlain, 462). The canestrato fresco, a fresh, mild, cheese is often replaced with mozzarella from Greece. Arabs and the Middle contribute the rice and saffron, the French add the ragout, and the tomato sauce originates from the Spanish (Correnti). Although oranginis are considered a Sicilian food, my family is from Naples and the version we eat is closest to the Neapolitan style. The Neapolitan cousin of oranginis, Palle di Riso, incorporates peas, meats, and mozzarella. In palle di riso the cheese and the meat are mixed in the rice. This contrasts to the Sicilian style orangini, arancini di riso, which have centers with cubes of cheese (Riley, 23). Versions of oranginis in Rome are called suppli al telefono because the eater has to contend with the strings of cheese that form after each bite that resemble telephone wires (Zeldes). Italian cities were decentralized and disliked each other. Someone from Naples would not like someone from Sicily based simply on the fact that they are from Sicily.  My father doubts that oranginis originated in Italy, despite all the evidence, because he still follows the divisions of old Italy. “People from Sicily are the lowest class Italians and oranginis are too tasty to have come from that dreadful Island” (Del Re). Regardless of where they are from, oranginis can only benefit from having such a diverse history.

Oranginis have been engrained into the Italian culture. Italians hold a carnival in celebration of excessive eating before the forty day fast of Lent. During Carnival, excess reigns everywhere and people eat large amounts of food. This excess is not in terms of quantity, but rather in eating a little of a wide variety of foods (Kostioukovitch, 158). In Rome and the south, orangini make outstanding bar food. This embodies the southern Italian tradition of eating while walking in the street. A person walks into a bar and orders a drink with a small food item (Riley, 186). Oranginis are small, easy to carry, and can be eaten with one hand, like an apple or orange (Kostioukovitch, 157).  The popularity that oranginis possess in Italy has carried over to America. Unsure of where or when oranginis first came to America, my father assumes they came over with the immigrants. Early recipes were shared by everybody who came from the same areas of Italy. Millions of immigrants flowed into the United States from Naples and they moved into the same neighborhoods, sharing their food (Del Re). Oranginis were immortalized by the story of Andrea Camilleri in which the main character, Inspector Montalbano goes through hijinks to get to his beloved oranginis (Riley, 23). Montalbano narrowly escapes diverting the courses of justice to enjoy a feast of arancini to celebrate their short lived release from jail (Camilleri).


example of Palle di Riso courtesy of: http://vittoriagourmet.blogspot.com/2011/05/arancini-italian-rice-ball.html              

Oranginis have been an important piece of my family culture and history for generations. During an interview with my father I learned many things about orangini, my father, and my ancestry. My family is from a small town outside of Naples called Morcone. Oranginis originated in my family through my father’s great grandmother. She found the recipe and passed it on to my great grandmother, “Nanny” Dora (Del Re). The orangini recipe is one of a few deep family recipes that are very important to my family and our history, but it has changed over time.

Today my babysitter, Margarita, makes oranginis for the family. Since Nanny Dora passed away, oranginis were not made until twenty seven years ago, when Margarita came to work for my family. The recipe came from my father’s paternal side and his mother never made them. Margarita got parts of the recipe from my great Aunt Connie who could not remember every detail, but Margarita filled in the gaps with her own ideas on what she should include. This change in the recipe added a Central American influence to the recipe. The recipe, just like culture, is always changing for better or for worse. The culture that we have is an invisible bond that ties my family and those around my family together. This connection is determined by both the past and the present which strongly influence the future. According to my father, Margarita’s recipe tastes good, but is not the same as the authentic Del Re recipe he remembers from his childhood. Since Aunt Connie died, Margarita is really the only one associated with my family that has the recipe memorized. There are copies of the recipe floating around somewhere in the family archives, but no one has been able to find it to use it. I do not want oranginis to die out of my family so I intend to learn it from her as soon as I can because I will not have my babysitter forever. Once I learn it from her I want to make her version as well as Nanny Dora’s version and see how much it has changed over the years. Seeing how it has changed will give me sense of where my family has come from.

In my family oranginis are reserved for special occasions. My father only had them on Christmas and Easter because they were a lot of trouble to make. I never realized the emotional connection that my father has with oranginis until after our interview. One of his most fond memories as a child is his grandmother holding a big platter of oranginis at Christmas when he was ten or twelve years old. He remembered all the adults and children laughing and having a good time being together. My father, who is a stoic man, had tears running down his eyes while recounting this story. I asked him what comes to mind when he thinks about oranginis. He responded, with a big smile on his face, “I think about my Nanny, family and happiness” (Del Re).

The definition stated by the Oxford Companion to Italian Food describes oranginis as a bar snack or antipasto (appetizer). This definition makes the dish seem as an insignificant part of the meal, something they are not. Oranginis play a huge significance in my family. They represent the bringing together of my family after long absences. Whether it be coming back home from a vacation to  my dog  jumping for joy or seeing relatives I have not seen for months or years, oranginis are only made for special events. Special is what I define my experiences with oranginis. For my father, these special occasions were big family holiday dinners, while my special occasions have been coming home after long periods of time. Oranginis represent so much more than just a great food in that they represent my family and how we can all be far apart, but still be connected. I always look forward to coming home because I know one thing will be waiting for me when I get back. I look forward to the oranginis not only because they taste great, but also because oranginis mean I am home, my family is there, and we are finally together again.

The orangini recipe has changed over time, gathering influences from different cultures and peoples. In my family, oranginis represent unity and the importance of being home. The importance of home was never really clear to me until I went off to college in the fall. Home is so much more than a place. Home is not only a physical location, but it is the family you have, the people that you care about, and the food you love. Oranginis have clearly been an important part of my family history. It is not merely a tasty food that my family eats when we are together and on holidays. The traditions that surround this small rice ball represent the bonds of family love that manage to stay strong, even over long distances. To some people it is just an antipasto, the beginning, but to my family it is the main course, the most important. Even though the recipe has changed over time, the importance of oranginis is still there. It is still and will always represent the importance of family. I was unaware of the numerous family traditions and stories that surround this dish. It just shows how incredible the history of something can be and how central a role it plays in how you came to be and who you will become.

Recipe
  • —  1 lb. of chopped sirloin 
  • —  2 lbs. of long grain rice 
  • —  1 1/2 lbs. of crushed tomatos
  • —  1/2 lb. of fresh salted mozzerella 
  • —  1/2 lb. grated parmasean cheese 
  • —  1 fresh garlic clove chopped fine 
  • —  3 eggs and seasoned breadcrumbs 

1.     Fry garlic in olive oil until garlic is brown.
2.     Boil rice until done.
3.     Add tomatoes to garlic and simmer for 15 minutes.
4.     Cook the chopped sirloin in the fry pan until half done.
5.     Add cheese to rice and let stand until melted. Let all partly cool, then mix rice, meat and sauce.
6.     Make balls and dip into beaten eggs, roll in bread crumbs and
7.     Deep fry in olive oil until brown. Mmmmmmm. 

Works Cited 


Camilleri, Andrea, Gli arancini di Montalbano. Milan, 1999. Print.

Chamberlain, Samuel. Italian Banquet: An Epicurean Tour of Italy.  New York: Gourmet Books Inc.,  
          1958. Print.

Correnti, Pino. Il libro d'oro della cucina e dei vini di Sicilia. Milan: Mursia, 1976. Print

Del Rey, Alfred. Personal Interview. 17 Apr. 2012

Riley, Gillian. The Oxford companion to Italian Food. New York: Oxford University Press, 2007. Print. 

Zeldes, Leah A. "Eat This! Arancini, great balls of flavor from Sicily" Dining Chicago. Dining Chicago, 
          21 Oct. 2009. Web. 15 Apr. 2009. 

 


 

Thursday, April 12, 2012

Farmburgerizza


This week, on my journey to explore Atlanta for pizza, my Aunt and I went to Farmburger. I know this is not a pizza place, but neither of us were in the mood to eat pizza and I have always wanted to try Farmburger. I have heard good things and I can always appreciate a great tasting burger.
Farmburger has two locations in Atlanta. My aunt and I went to Farmburger in Decatur. Since it was Easter everyone was probably eating at home and we got the benefit of having no line.
The restaurant has a very friendly atmosphere. You walk up to the register to order your food and it is then brought over to you. The menu allows for a very customizable burger with everything from house pickles to gruyere. Some toppings are free while the more exclusive toppings range from $1 to $2. The extra price for some of the toppings is in addition to the flat cost of $6.50 for the burger itself. I was too hungry to think about what I wanted on my burger so I decided to get one of Farmburger’s pre-customized burgers. I got “The Farmburger” with a side of sweet potato fries and a drink. I got a sweet tea which tasted surprisingly good.
The burger came and I could barely wait to eat it. The meat was still sizzling from being on the grill. Farmburger takes pride in that their burgers are grass-fed, antibiotic and hormone free, locally raised, ground fresh, and made in house. The fact of the matter is that they should take pride. Their burgers are DELICIOUS! I think I ate the burger in what seemed like 3 seconds because I could not believe it was gone. “The Farmburger” has white cheddar cheese, caramelized onions, bacon, and Farmburger sauce. All the toppings were so tasty and also very fresh. One of the greatest things about the Farmburger burger is that it manages to smell good and taste good without being covered in grease. Each bite is juicy and flavorful, but afterwards I don’t get that gross feeling I get after eating Five Guys. The sweet potato fries were also amazing. I always prefer to have sweet potato fries over regular French fries. The fries had a crispy outside with steaming potato goodness inside. Those I ate with some restraint because I wanted them to last as long as possible.







Sunday, April 1, 2012

The JUMBO Slice


               I have not had the chance to get pizza in Atlanta for some time due to a myriad of factors. School work has been building up for me and it has been the same case for my aunt. She teaches at Oxford and her workload has been, according to her, unrelenting. In addition to my schoolwork I have been pledging a fraternity and that has been eating up a lot of my time. 
               Fortunately I had the pleasure of going home for spring break, allowing myself to get New York pizza. My flight landed around midnight on a Friday night, and the second I arrived home my friend and I jumped into a car and drove into the city to grab some food. We went to a tiny little pizzeria, filled with big things, called Koronets. Koronets is an unique pizzeria because the slices they serve are literally bigger than your face (See picture below). Located uptown in Manhattan near Columbia University, Koronets is locally famous among the people who live there, especially those who are looking for a good meal at a bargain price. It manages to be one of my favorite places to go in the city. They somehow are able to keep the crust crisp and perfect while creating a super sized pizza over 30 inches in diameter. To put into perspective, a normal pizza is around 16 inches in diameter. It is remarkable that their slices are able to stand up to their own weight. Most slices I have had in Atlanta can barely keep rigid when they are folded in half. The tips droop and cause, one of the most terrible things in the world, the cheese to fall off the slice. On a half fold, the Koronets slices are surprisingly rigid. Their ability to keep the slices rigid shows the true talent of the Koronets chefs. It requires more skill than one would think to get this right. They are artists when it comes to making pizza.
Slideshow
               Koronets achieves in creating their amazing jumbo slices, but they still manage to keep the price down. One jumbo slice costs only $3.75, while a regular slice of $2.50. A jumbo slice is definitely equivalent to at least two and a half regular slices and they taste as good, if not better. My friends tell me they taste the same as a regular slice, but I think they taste better. All pizza lovers should get a chance to experience the joy of eating a giant slice of pizza. Not only do the jumbo slices save you money, they taste good. Some people do not order it because they are afraid of the daunting task of eating a literally giant slice of pizza, but you have to be up to the task to truly enjoy something special.